![]() I think the best you can do shy of taking every hose apart and pulling the engine, is probably the lower radiator hose and the two auxillary coolers for the charge air coolers (essentially two smaller radiators.) The only thing I'm still uncertain of is the bleeding procedure not sure if my Foxwell scanner has a "map thermostat" mode as described in the BMW bleeding procedure below or if it's truly even necessary.ĭo not leave the coolant expansion tank sealing cap open during the bleeding procedure. This is why my one BMW indy shop said they recommend doing it every 4 years. This system was apparently not designed to have coolant flushed as a regular maintenance procedure shy of removing every hose, the main expansion tank, heat exchanger, etc, you're just not going to get all the fluid out. You will need to open and drain other hoses if you want to change the coolant in the other system/circuits. That is the reservoir on top of the engine. The marked up photo you posted covers the charge air/DME system. The charge air coolers and DME are separate from the main engine and turbo circuits. ![]() I'm pretty sure you know this already but there are two separate cooling circuits. Removing and installing/replacing right auxiliary coolant cooler (S63 B44 T 0)īleeding cooling system and checking for watertightness (S63 B44 T 0) ![]() Removing and installing/replacing left auxiliary coolant cooler (S63 B44 T 0) Venting and filling cooling system with vacuum filling unit Since I only change oil about once a year, I might consider doing this more often say every other year and by doing it more frequently, ensure that my coolant never gets too old.ĭraining and topping up coolant (S63 B44 T 0) (Not sure how easy it is to access them, but surely they are intended to be serviced.) Then, I can suck out the fluid in the expansion tank for the charge air coolers and between it all, get out as much fluid as I can. Disconnect the lower radiator hose, let it drain, and then also disconnect the lower hoses on the two auxiliary coolers for the charge air coolers. In the M5 with the S63TU, there is more to it. The closest I could find was like a 535 in the F10 forum, and obviously that isn't going to drain all the fluid in your system. BMW simply says to remove the fan cowl and disconnect the lower radiator hose. Not sure about the BMW procedure for the electric water pump bleeding cycle, if that works on the F10, and whether or not that opens the thermostat.ĭraining on the other hand, is a different story. Get yourself a Schwaben Coolant Refill Air Purge tool and follow the instructions. I called one local BMW specialty shop and he said he prefers not even to swap the coolant because you can break stuff filling it back up.įilling it back up seems like the easy part. Especially for the M5's, it's like crickets in Google. I only use Honda though as per manual.My MY15 M5 turned the big Five in late February so I thought I would look into what it took to change the coolant. If I use another named brand make sure to drain and fill to Honda's DOT 3.Īs far as I'm concerned all DOT 3 have to meet same requirements and other named brands should do the trick. But on my manual it says to use Honda heavy duty brake fluid. I considered Preston's or even Valvoline. But there are some things that knowledged mechanics say are no problem to use any brand like brake fluid. ![]() ![]() So I use my own decided brand of engine oil, washer fluid. One thing that kind of annoys me, I agree to some level that dealers are trying to I crease their profit. I changed mine as it had cracks but I knew nothing about this. Something's the imid doesn't say so for that I have to read info on like serpentine belt. Transmission fluid drain and fill I do every 30k. I use K&N filter so that's good for a bit. Oil change for example I do it every 12k-14k (I get oil tested at Blackstone labs). Click to expand.I usually will follow the imid. ![]()
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